On a day when the heavens opened in London, the rain hammered against the reflective windows of my office block in Shoreditch. Sat looking out the window at what is quickly becoming another gloomy Summer, it would have been so easy to drop into momentary lapse and what I like to call a 'junior' state of depression. Flashing on my screen however is a 'beacon of hope', a 'candle in the wind', THE most beautiful dress by Ricardo Tisci at Givenchy. This is couture week in Paris. The opulent curtains have come crashing down on what has been another extraordinary week on the fashion calender.
Couture week is time for the big guns to show us the clothes that not only for them and their individual houses represent class and tradition, but clothes that will continue to shape how the world views sheer luxury and recognition of a craft that can be described as nothing other than art.
Show after show the couture houses of Armani, Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, Saab and Valentino brought us garments that not only were meticulously crafted but instantaneously house recognisable.
Clearly visible was the signature Chanel tweed in Lagerfelds' show entitled "Les Allures de Chanel". This time a dark twist where monochrome was overpowered by a need, a want - of darkness to prevail.
Christian Dior supplied us with a refined 30's silhouette, defined by shape, Stephen Jones headpieces and the beautiful Karlie Kloss in disguise as a playful but sad Pierrot - quite possibly an offering to the fallen master Galliano.
Valentino brought an ode to old fashioned luxury (half buttoned sleeves) and made it super modern by adding detail such as slashed open backs in velvet and braided necklines - that in those days would have simply been 'out of the question'. If it's diversity you prefer, this collection will blow your socks off.
On his first outing Giambattista Valli (a designer I always associate with the Olsen twins) gave us a younger representation of couture as it would look on a modern muse, feathers, hair, ruffles and amazing gowns - a more than successful first outing. The stand out piece for me was a black lace dress, delicately coated in single feathers and draped in floor length veil, the slight peek of a red head band flashing through - beautiful!
Finally.....
On a week where couture evolved and ventured to unknown places, Ricardo Tisci at Givenchy took that literally and took his show to the banks of the Seine. The result of which was an astoundingly contradictive show. In true couture style, the clothes told a story. Although all but one of the dresses were white, the feeling of the show as the garments progressed was surprisingly dark. It was as if they were being stripped of the their purity and their vulnerability becoming almost Goddess like. The finale dress was a shade of gold, motifs booming from the pelvis, beads, fringing, crystals and endless tread bringing to life a modern Mother Nature. Possessing overwhelming power and flashing her t**s! If the dress could speak it was saying "I am what I am". Another amazing outing for Tisci who in my books is prematurely becoming one of the best designers of all time.
Kiss Kiss Bang Bang
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| Chanel |
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| Chanel |
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| Chanel |
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| Dior |
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| Dior |
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| Dior |
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| Givenchy |
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| Givenchy |
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| Givenchy |
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| Givenchy |
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| Valentino |
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| Valentino |
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| Valentino |
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| Valli |
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| Valli |
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| Valli |
Images courtesy of style.com
I love the last dress1 Amazing!
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