10:45 Marios Schwab
I have waited all week to see my favourite designer take to the runway with his collection. I sat in anticipation, feet nervously tapping the ground, willing it to be the best so far or at very least my favoutite collection. What is so good about Marios Schwab you might ask? Just take a look at todays show. He hit the ground running when he opened with a blood red leather dress, simple in shape and form, exciting in length, functional, wearable and hardcore. It was clear that this collection was going to have a rough edge to it as soon as the electro drum and bass soundtrack kicked in!
One after the other the models appeared looking hard with sleek top-knots in their hair and subtle make-up, ready to have a "hell of a good time". Hell being the operative word because the next few pieces were in an intriguing, temptress red (a colour that Betty Jackson and Antonio Berardi used earlier in the week). One of which was wool with leather sleeves and strap detail, just a gorgeous dress. Then were different variations of sexy dresses with belts precariously positioned so they almost looked like bondage straps. This was fashion forward, young and refreshing. Whats more is that there was something for everyone with various lengths and embellishments, but every piece was as "seductive" as the next said Schwab.
Schwabs backround in architecture is always a telling factor and today was no different. Disconnected sleeves and Y-shaped panelling looked sleek and sultry from far away yet really romantic from up close. Simplicity existed in a cream button high neck blouse and red leather trousers, perfectly cut. A navy silk shirt paired with an offset skirt and leather gloves, tres chic! Warm winter looks consisted of a puffed and skirted nylon parka in rich burgundy brown that brought images of mulled wine to mind. Comforting but with a slight kick!
Then a change of direction for evening wear with pearl details lending a softer side to the collection. They were scalloped into the dresses in exactly the right place to highlight the female form. On the neckline and on the waist. The outline of each pearl embellishment was sculpted in a way that reminded me of his Austrian sewing skills past. There was a jumpsuit amongst the dresses to mix it up a little but it still had an opulent evening wear feel with the rows of asymmetric pearls. The colour palette was cohesive and showed great depth - mustards, burgundys, nudes and blacks completed a show that was both exciting to watch and one which will cement Schwab as one of the finest new age mastercraftsmen!
In every sense of the word this collection was a reverse scenario of Good Girl Gone Bad, a progression from hard to soft no doubt a reflection of the fact that Schwab went back to his roots and took influence from Austrian architect Alfred Loos.